oNdini Heritage Site
Your Essential Guide to the Zululand Experience
visitZululand.co.za
The official website of
the uMlalazi Tourism Association

KwaZulu
Cultural Museum
&
oNdini Royal Residence

Ulundi
Reconstructed capital of King Cetshwayo
Reconstructed capital of King Cetshwayo

• Interpretive Centre
• Museum
• Guides
• Book shop
• uMuzi Bushcamp

Open daily
09h00-16h00
Closed
Christmas/Good Friday


Tel: 035 870 2050



Ondini, ULUNDI

• Big 5 Safari
• Historical Tours
• Cultural Tours
• Royal Reed Dance
• Accommodation at uMuzi Bushcamp, Ondini


Tel: 035 870 2500
082 461 7860
Email:
info@tintasafaris.co.za


HENRY BIRD
Registered Tour Guide

Battlefields
Shaka Country
Martyr's Cross
• KwaMondi
• Museum Village

Contact:
Tel/fax: 035 474 2348
Cell: 082 484 7406
email:
asambe@zulucom.net


Land Lover Safaris
Tailor-made excursions

• Game Park
s
• Forests of Zululand
•Zulu Culture
• and more!
Kobus du Toit
(KZN Tour operator)
083 414 9323
035 789 1176
landlover@telkomsa.net
www.landloversafaris.co.za




 

 

ULUNDI - The Heart of the Zulu Kingdom

The journey to Ulundi takes the visitor to the very heart of the Zulu Kingdom.
The last battle of the Anglo-Zulu War took place close to present-day Ulundi in 1879. The British army took up position on the north bank of the White Umfolozi River overlooking King Cetshwayo's capital oNdini and on the morning of 4 July 1879, about 5 000 men formed a hollow square and began to advance across the plain where 20 000 Zulu warriors awaited them.
The battle lasted less than 45 minutes and despite the great courage and determination of the Zulu men as they faced two Gatling guns, infantry rifle fire and artillery, few got within 30 metres of the square.
Only 12 men were killed on the British side, while the Zulu were thought to have lost up to 1 500 in the battle which effectively ended the war, the rule of King Cetshwayo and the independence of the Zulu kingdom.
Those killed in the battle are buried in a garden of blood-red flowering aloes and today white stones mark the position of the British square on the Ulundi battlefield. A picturesque domed stone memorial bears the inscription:
"In memory of the brave warriors who fell here in 1879 in defence of the old Zulu order"
.
Nearby, King Cetshwayo's residence at oNdini has been recreated on the exact site of the Royal capital following extensive archaeological excavation and the discovery of the original preserved mud and dung floors of the huts.
There is a site interpretative centre which has a fascinating display on the scale and layout of oNdini at the time of King Cetshwayo. Due to the enormity of the original capital only the isigodlo (the Royal enclosure) has been rebuilt. Cetshwayo's indlunkulu (the Great Hut) is particularly impressive and from the low opening it was possible to look half a kilometre downhill to the main entrance of the capital.
The oNdini Heritage Site also houses the KwaZulu Cultural Museum with exhibits of the history and arts of the Zulu people.

THE ROYAL REED DANCE
Once a year, usually on the second Saturday of September, thousands of maidens from all over the Zulu Kingdom gather at eNyokeni Palace outside Ulundi to take part in one of the most colourful festivities in the South African cultural calendar - the Royal Reed Dance or uMkhosi woMahlanga, as it is known in the Zulu language.
The festival takes its name from the riverbed reeds which are carried by the maidens in a procession several kilometres long and presented to the king in the Royal Enclosure.
The Reed Dance is a solemn occassion for the teenage girls but it is also an opportunity to show off their singing, dancing and beadwork - the fruits of many months of excitement and preparation.
Beadwork abounds and it is often the only clothing the maidens wear. The girls are for the most part bare breasted and they wear the traditional beaded belt and frontal apron worn by virgins - the isigege. The beadwork is in a range of intricate patterns and vivid colours, differing from region to region.
The older matrons, who oversee the event and instruct the young girls in their preparation for womanhood, are just as colourfully dressed with their ornate headdress and cowhide skirts.
The procession is usually led by princesses from the Royal Family who are the first to present their reeds to the king who is flanked by a full regiment of Zulu Traditional leaders.
In recent times the King has used the Reed Dance as an opportunity to address social issues most affecting the youth of South Africa such as HIV/Aids and teenage pregnancy.

Memorial to fallen soldiers of the Battle of Ulundi, July 1879
The beautifull and unusual monument on the battle site of Ulundi honours those who died during the final confrontation in the Anglo-Zulu War in 1879.
Historic beadwork from the collection at the KwaZulu Cultural Museum
The KwaZulu Cultural Museum houses the most important collection of historical Zulu artefacts.
A group of maidens prepare for the annual Royal Reed Dance
Thousands of young maidens dressed in the traditional beaded belt and frontal apron gather on the morning of the Reed Dance. Each region favours a different colour scheme and design providing examples of some of the best beadwork in Africa.

King Zwelithini awaits the arrival of the maidens at eNyokeni Palace
King Zwelithini (right) and Dr Mangosuthu Buthelezi await the arrival of the maidens in the Royal Enclosure at eNyokeni Palace.
10 000 maidens in procession at the annual Royal Reed Dance
Part of the procession of an estimated crowd of 10 000 maidens who each carry a reed and present it to the king at the palace.
Protocol
at the
Reed Dance
Zulu maidens proudly display their beadwork
Visitors to the Reed Dance are warmly welcomed and - as one of the most colourful events on the South African cultural calendar - it provides an increasingly rare opportunity for visitors to see and experience such a vibrant and traditional spectacle.
However, visitors would be well advised to note that as a major Zulu cultural event, the entire Royal Family is in attendance and certain aspects of protocol need to be observed.
Visitors wishing to witness the presentation of reeds by the maidens to the King will require a VIP pass to enter the Royal Enclosure.
These need to be obtained beforehand through one of several Tour Operators who offer tours to the event.
In the past, women visitors wearing pants have been asked to leave the Royal Enclosure (usually by a policewoman wearing trousers) even though they are in possession of a visitor's VIP pass.
Photographing the maidens is tolerated and any visitor with a camera will be swamped by crowds of beaded maidens calling for their picture to be taken but please note that Tribal officials are sensitive to the decorum of the occassion and will act against any visitor deemed to be taking 'inappropriate' photographs.
• Tinta Safaris - 035 870 2500/082 461 7860. Email: info@tintasafaris.co.za.
• Zululand Eco-Adventures: Tel: 035 474 4919. Email: info@eshowe.com
Map of Ulundi
Accommodation
Viewing site
Reconstructed Royal Capital
Entrance to Game Park
Place of Interest
Craft Market

 KING CETSHWAYO - The End of the Old Order

King Cetshwayo by Heather Gourlay-Conyngham

In the 19th Century the Zulu Kingdom was the most politically sophisticated and militarily powerful force in all of south-eastern Africa, and its stern shadow spread over the entire region.
It was brought to its knees only after a spectacular war with imperial Britain, which still captures the modern imagination with its poignant tale of glory, grandeur, bravery and loss.

King Cetshwayo was King Mpande's eldest son and was born in the Eshowe area around 1832 and from an early age he displayed the dauntless spirit of his uncle, King Shaka.
He distinguished himself as a military commander and a warrior in campaigns against the Swazis and the Tsongas in the 1850s but his father had many sons and his succession to the throne was not guaranteed. A bitter power struggle between the Zulu princes developed and this ended in one of the bloodiest battles ever fought on South African soil.
At Ndondakusuka (near present day Mandini) more than 23 000 people were slaughtered or drowned in the Thukela River as Cetshwayo's army clashed with his brothers supporters. Cetshwayo emerged victorious but five of King Mpande's sons (Cetshwayo's half-brothers) were killed in the battle.
Thereafter Cetshwayo shared power with his father and he later became the uncrowned monarch of Zululand as his father grew more obese and incapacitated.
On Mpande's death in 1872, Cetshwayo was crowned king and swiftly established his military capital at oNdini. His reign was initially peaceful. However, following the discovery of diamonds in Kimberley, British imperial policy makers began devising a confederation scheme to consolidate British interests in South Africa and an independent Zulu kingdom was seen as an obstruction towards this objective.
Anglo-Zulu relations deteriorated rapidly and in December 1878, the British High Commissioner sent King Cetshwayo an ultimatum which effectively called for the dismantling of the Zulu army.
Cetshwayo ignored the demands and a month later the British Army invaded Zululand with three columns of troops.
On 22 January 1879 Zulu forces gained a resounding victory at the Battle of Isandlwana. However, at Rorke's Drift later that same day, a few isolated men who had resigned themselves to defeat and likely death faced a Zulu attack of 4 000 warriors and fought desperately for 12 hours until the Zulu army withdrew in the early hours of the morning.
Queen Victoria awarded 11 Victoria Crosses to the valiant defenders of Rorke's Drift - the largest number ever awarded for a single engagement.
After the battles of Khambula (March 29) and Gingindlovu (2 April) Cetshwayo gave up hope of a military solution, but his attempts to negotiate a peace deal were rebuffed.
On 4 July 1879 the Zulu army was defeated at Ulundi. King Cetshwayo was captured in the Ngome Forest eight weeks later and sent into exile in the Cape.
He returned to Zululand in 1883 but with his powers severely curbed and the Zulu nation on the brink of civil war. His new headquarters at oNdini was attacked by Zulu opposition forces and he was forced to take refuge in Nkandla Forest. He was later placed under the protection of the British Resident at Eshowe where he died unexpectedly after eating a meal. The exact cause of his death was never ascertained. He was buried in the valley below Nkandla Forest.
Cetshwayo was passionately interested in the laws, customs and history of his people and since he possessed a very retentive memory, he became a walking repository of Zulu lore.
When sitting in judgement he did his best to reconcile disputes and to try cases justly, and usually condemned people to death only after considerable deliberation. On the other hand, he could be autocratic, headstrong and obstinate.
When he was in a fury none dared oppose him.
Nomguqo Paulina Dlamini was a teenage servant in King Cetshwayo's Royal Enclosure and years later recorded how two young women were summarily executed for failing to cook a meal for two men building the rectangular house which was a unique feature of oNdini. In her memoirs she used the Zulu expression for the execution of women which translates as "that they may marry the bearded man at the Nkatha, after having bled".
The place of execution was at Nkatha, a flat bushy place on the banks of the White Umfolozi River - in the present Opathe Game Park. The normal methods of execution were either by twisting the victim's neck, or stangulation or by braining with a heavy object.

"To all apearance he [King Cetshwayo] was fat, but on touching his flesh, it became apparent that it was all firm flesh. This is a peculiarity of all his family. They have all immense thighs . . "
- John Dunn, the White Chief of Zululand.

"Cetshwayo was very stingy.
He had inherited this trait from his mother who had a reputation of never ever offering anyone a drink of beer . . . "

- Nomguqo Paulina Dlamini,
Servant to King Cetshwayo.

Ondini - reconstructed Royal capital of King Cetshwayo
A section of the Royal Enclosure at oNdini has been accurately reconstructed using building materials available and methods practised in the time of King Cetshwayo.
Interior of the Great Hut of King Cetshwayo
The interior of King Cetshwayo's main hut at oNdini with the original floor. The entire Capital was destroyed by fire after the Battle of Ulundi and the heat generated when the huts burned, baked the floors, thereby preserving them.

King Cetshwayo in LondonBlue plaque of English Heritage marks the house King Cetshwayo resided in during his visit to LondonOsborne House - Queen Victoria received King Cetshwayo in the Drawing Room of her country house on the Isle of WightThe silver Loving Cup King Cetshwayo received from Queen Victoria after their historic visit

A Zulu King goes to London . . .

King Cetshwayo was the first Zulu king to travel far beyond the borders of his kingdom. After the Anglo-Zulu War, the king was captured and held as a prisoner of war at The Castle in Cape Town. During his time there he successfully petitioned the Colonial authorities to allow him to sail to London to present his case for reinstatement as King of the Zulus.
The arrival in London in August 1882 of the leader of the army which had been victorious against the British Army at the Battle of Isandlwana as well as brought an end to the Napoleonic Dynasty with the killing of the Prince Imperial near Nqutu, aroused considerable interest and fanfare.

Forsaking his traditional Zulu dress for frock-coats, gloves and top hat, King Cetshwayo cut a dashing and exotic figure in the streets of Kensington.


Curious crowds gathered outside the imposing townhouse in Melbury Road, which was his home for a month, hoping for a glimpse of the Zulu monarch and he had to appear every few hours on the balcony to acknowledge the cheers.
He met the Prime Minister at Westminster and sailed to the Isle of Wight for a meeting with Queen Victoria at her country estate Osborne House. It was on this occassion that Queen Victoria presented King Cetshwayo with the three-handled silver Loving Cup. It is inscribed "Presented to Cetywayo by Queen Victoria August 14 1882" and was presented as a ceremonial gift to symbolise the friendship of the two kingdoms following the war.

Queen Victoria also commissioned court artist Carl Sohn to paint the King's portrait. This is generally regarded to be a good likeness of the monarch but he has been incorrectly portrayed as wearing a bear skin kaross (a Zulu king would rather have worn a leopard skin) and a necklace of whale's teeth - rather than the culturally correct necklace of lion claws which Zulu kings wore.



Further Reading:
A visit to Ulundi would be greatly enhanced by some understanding of the rich history of the area. The memoirs of Paulina Dlamini, in particular, give a fascinating glimpse of everyday life in the Royal homestead.
Filter, H (Compiled by) Bourquin, S (Edited and translated) Paulina Dlamini: Servant of Two Kings, Durban and Pietermaritzburg, 1986.
Guy, J, The Destruction of the Zulu Kingdom, London, 1979.
Laband, J, Fight Us in the Open, Pietermaritzburg and Ulundi, 1985.
Laband, J, Rope of Sand: The Rise and Fall of the Zulu Kingdom in the Nineteenth Century, Jonathan Ball, Johannesburg, 1995.
Laband, J and Thompson, P, The Illustrated Guide to the Anglo-Zulu War, Pietermaritzburg and Durban.
Webb, D de B, and Wright, J B (eds), A Zulu King Speaks: Statements Made by Cetshwayo kaMpande on the History and Customs of his People, Pietermaritzburg and Durban, 1978.

The memoirs of Paulina Dlamini who worked as a lady-in-waiting at the court of King Cetshwayo
 

ACCOMMODATION - Ulundi
uMuzi Bushcamp
uMuzi Bushcamp: Several charming traditional Zulu homesteads equipped as modern bedroom suites and set in the grounds of the Ondini Heritage Sites. A large grass beehive hut is available for larger groups.
Rates: R495 B&B (doubles), R385 (single). Dinner on request. Credit card facilities available.

www.visitZululand.co.za is the official website of the uMlalazi Tourism Association
Contact details: Tel: (+27) 035 473 3359
email: ronel@umlalazi.org.za
© uMlalazi Tourism Association

 

Opathe Gate - Emakhosini Opathe Heritage Park open:  05h00-19h00 (Summer) 06h00-18h00 (Winter) Cengeni Gate Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Game Park open: 05h00-19h00 (Summer) 06h00-18h00 (Winter) Craft Market Africa's oldest game park is accessible by tarred road and is 35kms from Ulundi King Dingane's spring and site of British army fort Spirit of eMakhosini -  Memorial overlooking the Valley of the Kings uMgungundlovu - The  reconstructed capital of King Dingane uMuzi Bushcamp - accommodation in traditional Zulu homesteads KwaZulu Cultural Museum oNdini - Reconstructed capital of King Cetshwayo eNyokeni Palace -  The Royal Reed Dance takes place here annually in September Nongoma - 45kms from Ulundi Melmoth is 45kms from Ulundi Ulundi - Heart of the Zulu Kingdom and site of the final battle of the Anglo Zulu War