KwaZulu
Cultural Museum
&
oNdini Royal Residence
Ulundi

Reconstructed
capital of King Cetshwayo
•
Interpretive Centre
• Museum
• Guides
•
Book shop
•
uMuzi Bushcamp
Open
daily
09h00-16h00
Closed
Christmas/Good Friday
Tel: 035 870 2050
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Ondini,
ULUNDI
•
Big 5 Safari
• Historical Tours
• Cultural Tours
• Royal Reed Dance
• Accommodation at uMuzi Bushcamp, Ondini
Tel: 035 870 2500
082 461 7860
Email:
info@tintasafaris.co.za
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HENRY
BIRD
Registered
Tour Guide |
| • Battlefields
• Shaka
Country
• Martyr's
Cross
•
KwaMondi
•
Museum Village |
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ULUNDI
- The Heart of the Zulu Kingdom |
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The
journey to Ulundi takes the visitor
to the very heart of the Zulu Kingdom.
The last battle of the Anglo-Zulu
War took place close to present-day
Ulundi in 1879. The British army took
up position on the north bank of the
White Umfolozi River overlooking King
Cetshwayo's capital oNdini and on
the morning of 4 July 1879, about
5 000 men formed a hollow square and
began to advance across the plain
where 20 000 Zulu warriors awaited
them.
The battle lasted less than 45 minutes
and despite the great courage and
determination of the Zulu men as they
faced two Gatling guns, infantry rifle
fire and artillery, few got within
30 metres of the square.
Only 12 men were killed on the British
side, while the Zulu were thought
to have lost up to 1 500 in the battle
which effectively ended the war, the
rule of King Cetshwayo and the independence
of the Zulu kingdom.
Those killed in the battle are buried
in a garden of blood-red flowering
aloes and today white stones mark
the position of the British square
on the Ulundi battlefield. A picturesque
domed stone memorial bears the inscription:
"In memory of the brave warriors
who fell here in 1879 in defence of
the old Zulu order".
Nearby, King Cetshwayo's residence
at oNdini has been recreated on the
exact site of the Royal capital following
extensive archaeological excavation
and the discovery of the original
preserved mud and dung floors of the
huts.
There is a site interpretative centre
which has a fascinating display on
the scale and layout of oNdini at
the time of King Cetshwayo. Due to
the enormity of the original capital
only the isigodlo (the Royal
enclosure) has been rebuilt. Cetshwayo's
indlunkulu (the Great Hut)
is particularly impressive and from
the low opening it was possible to
look half a kilometre downhill to
the main entrance of the capital.
The oNdini Heritage Site also houses
the KwaZulu Cultural Museum with exhibits
of the history and arts of the Zulu
people.
Once
a year, usually on the second Saturday
of September, thousands of maidens from
all over the Zulu Kingdom gather at
eNyokeni Palace outside Ulundi to take
part in one of the most colourful festivities
in the South African cultural calendar
- the Royal Reed Dance or uMkhosi woMahlanga,
as it is known in the Zulu language.
The festival takes its name from the
riverbed reeds which are carried by
the maidens in a procession several
kilometres long and presented to the
king in the Royal Enclosure.
The Reed Dance is a solemn occassion
for the teenage girls but it is also
an opportunity to show off their singing,
dancing and beadwork - the fruits of
many months of excitement and preparation.
Beadwork abounds and it is often the
only clothing the maidens wear. The
girls are for the most part bare breasted
and they wear the traditional beaded
belt and frontal apron worn by virgins
- the isigege. The beadwork
is in a range of intricate patterns
and vivid colours, differing from region
to region.
The older matrons, who oversee the event
and instruct the young girls in their
preparation for womanhood, are just
as colourfully dressed with their ornate
headdress and cowhide skirts.
The procession is usually led by princesses
from the Royal Family who are the first
to present their reeds to the king who
is flanked by a full regiment of Zulu
Traditional leaders.
In recent times the King has used the
Reed Dance as an opportunity to address
social issues most affecting the youth
of South Africa such as HIV/Aids and
teenage pregnancy. |

The
beautifull and unusual monument on
the battle site of Ulundi honours
those who died during the final confrontation
in the Anglo-Zulu War in 1879.

The
KwaZulu Cultural Museum houses the
most important collection of historical
Zulu artefacts.

Thousands of young
maidens dressed in the traditional
beaded belt and frontal apron gather
on the morning of the Reed Dance.
Each region favours a different colour
scheme and design providing examples
of some of the best beadwork in Africa.
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King Zwelithini
(right) and Dr Mangosuthu
Buthelezi await the arrival
of the maidens in the
Royal Enclosure at eNyokeni
Palace. |
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Part
of the procession of an
estimated crowd of 10
000 maidens who each carry
a reed and present it
to the king at the palace.
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Protocol
at the
Reed Dance |
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Visitors
to the Reed Dance are warmly welcomed
and - as one of the most colourful
events on the South African cultural
calendar - it provides an increasingly
rare opportunity for visitors
to see and experience such a vibrant
and traditional spectacle.
However, visitors would be well
advised to note that as a major
Zulu cultural event, the entire
Royal Family is in attendance
and certain aspects of protocol
need to be observed.
Visitors wishing to witness the
presentation of reeds by the maidens
to the King will require a VIP
pass to enter the Royal Enclosure.
These need to be obtained beforehand
through one of several Tour Operators
who offer tours to the event.
In the past, women visitors wearing
pants have been asked to leave
the Royal Enclosure (usually by
a policewoman wearing trousers)
even though they are in possession
of a visitor's VIP pass.
Photographing the maidens is tolerated
and any visitor with a camera
will be swamped by crowds of beaded
maidens calling for their picture
to be taken but please note that
Tribal officials are sensitive
to the decorum of the occassion
and will act against any visitor
deemed to be taking 'inappropriate'
photographs.
• Tinta Safaris
- 035 870 2500/082 461 7860. Email:
info@tintasafaris.co.za.
• Zululand Eco-Adventures:
Tel: 035 474 4919. Email: info@eshowe.com |
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Accommodation |
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Viewing
site |
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Reconstructed
Royal Capital |
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Entrance
to Game Park |
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Place
of Interest |
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Craft
Market |
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KING
CETSHWAYO - The End of the Old Order |
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In
the 19th Century the Zulu Kingdom
was the most politically sophisticated
and militarily powerful force in
all of south-eastern Africa, and
its stern shadow spread over the
entire region.
It was brought to its knees only
after a spectacular war with imperial
Britain, which still captures the
modern imagination with its poignant
tale of glory, grandeur, bravery
and loss.
King
Cetshwayo was King Mpande's eldest
son and was born in the Eshowe area
around 1832 and from an early age
he displayed the dauntless spirit
of his uncle, King Shaka.
He distinguished himself as a military
commander and a warrior in campaigns
against the Swazis and the Tsongas
in the 1850s but his father had
many sons and his succession to
the throne was not guaranteed. A
bitter power struggle between the
Zulu princes developed and this
ended in one of the bloodiest battles
ever fought on South African soil.
At Ndondakusuka (near present day
Mandini) more than 23 000 people
were slaughtered or drowned in the
Thukela River as Cetshwayo's army
clashed with his brothers supporters.
Cetshwayo emerged victorious but
five of King Mpande's sons (Cetshwayo's
half-brothers) were killed in the
battle.
Thereafter Cetshwayo shared power
with his father and he later became
the uncrowned monarch of
Zululand as his father grew more
obese and incapacitated.
On Mpande's death in 1872, Cetshwayo
was crowned king and swiftly established
his military capital at oNdini.
His reign was initially peaceful.
However, following the discovery
of diamonds in Kimberley, British
imperial policy makers began devising
a confederation scheme to consolidate
British interests in South Africa
and an independent Zulu kingdom
was seen as an obstruction towards
this objective.
Anglo-Zulu relations deteriorated
rapidly and in December 1878, the
British High Commissioner sent King
Cetshwayo an ultimatum which effectively
called for the dismantling of the
Zulu army.
Cetshwayo ignored the demands and
a month later the British Army invaded
Zululand with three columns of troops.
On 22 January 1879 Zulu forces gained
a resounding victory at the Battle
of Isandlwana. However, at Rorke's
Drift later that same day, a few
isolated men who had resigned themselves
to defeat and likely death faced
a Zulu attack of 4 000 warriors
and fought desperately for 12 hours
until the Zulu army withdrew in
the early hours of the morning.
Queen Victoria awarded 11 Victoria
Crosses to the valiant defenders
of Rorke's Drift - the largest number
ever awarded for a single engagement.
After the battles of Khambula (March
29) and Gingindlovu (2 April) Cetshwayo
gave up hope of a military solution,
but his attempts to negotiate a
peace deal were rebuffed.
On 4 July 1879 the Zulu army was
defeated at Ulundi. King Cetshwayo
was captured in the Ngome Forest
eight weeks later and sent into
exile in the Cape.
He returned to Zululand in 1883
but with his powers severely curbed
and the Zulu nation on the brink
of civil war. His new headquarters
at oNdini was attacked by Zulu opposition
forces and he was forced to take
refuge in Nkandla Forest. He was
later placed under the protection
of the British Resident at Eshowe
where he died unexpectedly after
eating a meal. The exact cause of
his death was never ascertained.
He was buried in the valley below
Nkandla Forest.
Cetshwayo was passionately interested
in the laws, customs and history
of his people and since he possessed
a very retentive memory, he became
a walking repository of Zulu lore.
When sitting in judgement he did
his best to reconcile disputes and
to try cases justly, and usually
condemned people to death only after
considerable deliberation. On the
other hand, he could be autocratic,
headstrong and obstinate.
When he was in a fury none dared
oppose him.
Nomguqo Paulina Dlamini was a teenage
servant in King Cetshwayo's Royal
Enclosure and years later recorded
how two young women were summarily
executed for failing to cook a meal
for two men building the rectangular
house which was a unique feature
of oNdini. In her memoirs she used
the Zulu expression for the execution
of women which translates as "that
they may marry the bearded man at
the Nkatha, after having bled".
The place of execution was at Nkatha,
a flat bushy place on the banks
of the White Umfolozi River - in
the present Opathe Game Park. The
normal methods of execution were
either by twisting the victim's
neck, or stangulation or by braining
with a heavy object.
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"To
all apearance he [King Cetshwayo]
was fat, but on touching his flesh,
it became apparent that it was all
firm flesh. This is a peculiarity
of all his family. They have all immense
thighs . . "
- John Dunn, the White Chief of Zululand.
"Cetshwayo
was very stingy.
He had inherited this trait from his
mother who had a reputation of never
ever offering anyone a drink of beer
. . . "
- Nomguqo Paulina Dlamini,
Servant to King Cetshwayo.
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A section of the Royal
Enclosure at oNdini has been accurately
reconstructed using building materials
available and methods practised in the
time of King Cetshwayo. |

The
interior of King Cetshwayo's main hut
at oNdini with the original floor. The
entire Capital was destroyed by fire
after the Battle of Ulundi and the heat
generated when the huts burned, baked
the floors, thereby preserving them.
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A
Zulu King goes to London . .
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King
Cetshwayo was the first Zulu
king to travel far beyond the
borders of his kingdom. After
the Anglo-Zulu War, the king
was captured and held as a prisoner
of war at The Castle in Cape
Town. During his time there
he successfully petitioned the
Colonial authorities to allow
him to sail to London to present
his case for reinstatement as
King of the Zulus.
The arrival in London in August
1882 of the leader of the army
which had been victorious against
the British Army at the Battle
of Isandlwana as well as brought
an end to the Napoleonic Dynasty
with the killing of the Prince
Imperial near Nqutu, aroused
considerable interest and fanfare.
Forsaking
his traditional Zulu dress for
frock-coats, gloves and top
hat, King Cetshwayo cut a dashing
and exotic figure in the streets
of Kensington.
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Curious
crowds gathered outside the
imposing townhouse in Melbury
Road, which was his home for
a month, hoping for a glimpse
of the Zulu monarch and he had
to appear every few hours on
the balcony to acknowledge the
cheers.
He met the Prime Minister at
Westminster and sailed to the
Isle of Wight for a meeting
with Queen Victoria at her country
estate Osborne House. It was
on this occassion that Queen
Victoria presented King Cetshwayo
with the three-handled silver
Loving Cup. It is inscribed
"Presented to Cetywayo
by Queen Victoria August 14
1882" and was presented
as a ceremonial gift to symbolise
the friendship of the two kingdoms
following the war.
Queen
Victoria also commissioned court
artist Carl Sohn to paint the
King's portrait. This is generally
regarded to be a good likeness
of the monarch but he has been
incorrectly portrayed as wearing
a bear skin kaross (a Zulu king
would rather have worn a leopard
skin) and a necklace of whale's
teeth - rather than the culturally
correct necklace of lion claws
which Zulu kings wore.
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Further
Reading:
A
visit to Ulundi would
be greatly enhanced by
some understanding of
the rich history of the
area. The memoirs of Paulina
Dlamini, in particular,
give a fascinating glimpse
of everyday life in the
Royal homestead.
Filter, H (Compiled by)
Bourquin, S (Edited and
translated) Paulina
Dlamini: Servant of Two
Kings, Durban
and Pietermaritzburg,
1986.
Guy, J, The
Destruction of the Zulu
Kingdom,
London, 1979.
Laband, J, Fight
Us in the Open,
Pietermaritzburg and Ulundi,
1985.
Laband, J, Rope
of Sand: The Rise and
Fall of the Zulu Kingdom
in the Nineteenth Century,
Jonathan Ball, Johannesburg,
1995.
Laband, J and Thompson,
P, The Illustrated
Guide to the Anglo-Zulu
War, Pietermaritzburg
and Durban.
Webb, D de B, and Wright,
J B (eds), A
Zulu King Speaks: Statements
Made by Cetshwayo kaMpande
on the History and Customs
of his People,
Pietermaritzburg and Durban,
1978.
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uMuzi
Bushcamp:
Several charming traditional Zulu
homesteads equipped as modern
bedroom suites and set in the
grounds of the Ondini Heritage
Sites. A large grass beehive hut
is available for larger groups.
Rates: R495 B&B (doubles),
R385 (single). Dinner on request.
Credit card facilities available. |
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