"We
cover the widest range of
off-the-beaten-track tours
in Zululand"
- Graham Chennels
The
George Hotel,
Main St, Eshowe
035
474 4919
info@eshowe.com
www.eshowe.com
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14
Hely Hutchinson Rd
MTUNZINI
Contact:
Marilyn Greeff
Tel: 035 340 1983
Cell: 083 631 1764
Fax: 035 340 2441
email: realty@mtunzini.co.za
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Computer
Service Training
Yvonne Lindiwe Mpanza
Office 1,
Inkosi Ndwandwe St
King Dinuzulu, Eshowe
035 474 8013
035 474 1694
082 968 9508
Hands-on
practical &
Interactive programmes
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Eco Estate & Home
of Zululand Golf
• 18-Hole Golf Course
• 6 Tennis Courts
• 2 Squash Courts
• Restaurant
Contact:
Tel: 035 474 4884
info@eshowehills.co.za
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HENRY
BIRD
Registered
Tour Guide |
| • Battlefields
• Shaka
Country
• Martyr's
Cross
•
KwaMondi
•
Museum Village |
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Birding
Zulu Culture
Game viewing
Customised
tours &
hidden gems with
registered tour guide
Des Shuttleworth
035 474 1855
072 711 4413
deseshowe@mweb.co.za
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| ADAMS'
OUTPOST
at
the Museum Village
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| • Tea
Garden
• Restaurant
• Private Functions
•
Tour Groups
•
School Groups |
| Contact:
Terry MacDonald
Tel:
035-474-1787 |
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OPEN
7 DAYS A WEEK
Mon-Fri: 07h00-19h00
Sat-Sun: 08h00-17h00
ESHOWE SUPERSPAR
on Osborn Rd
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for
a world of beads
1
Wantink Rd, Eshowe
035 474 1806
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• Coffees
& Cakes
• Lunches
• Tourism info
Open
Mon-Sat:
on
Station Rd
035 340 2897
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24 Hely Hutchinson Rd
NTUNZINI
Exciting
new listings!
Contact:
Cheryl Southgate
Tel: 035 340 2931
Cell: 082 770 7423
Fax:088 035 340 2931
email: cheryl@southgateproperties..co.za
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NOBA
Restaurant & Bar
cnr
of Kangela and
M. Buthelezi Rds
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•
Urban Zulu Cuisine
•
Open 7 days a week
•
From Lunch till Late
Tel:
072 130 1617
072 621 8346
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At Eshowe Mall

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Coffee
Shop
Light
meals
Catering
035
474 5660
084 596 4609
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There
are reminders everywhere of Zululand's
colonial legacy. The language spoken
in the streets, the architecture
of old buildings, the churches perched
on hilltops, the sombre war memorials
still standing on roadsides all
attest to Zululand's remarkable
recent
history.
It
is the story of one kingdom's imperial
ambitions clashing violently with
another kingdom's determination
to be independent. And the ideal
starting point for exploring this
bloody episode is literally where
the Anglo Zulu War began - the Ultimatum
Tree on the banks of uThukela River.
The
Battles of Nyezane and Gingindlovu |
The
R102 route from uThukela and then
the R66 to Eshowe
closely follows the route which
the British Right Column took
on their invasion of Zululand
and granite crosses on
the side of the R66 between Gingindlovu
and Eshowe mark the sites of two
battles between the British and
the Zulu armies.
The first battle of the Anglo
Zulu War was fought near the Nyezane
river on 22 January 1879. Here
the British managed to avoid the
defeat which the Central Column
faced at Isandlwana on the same
day. They were able to advance
onward to Eshowe where they converted
the Norwegian mission station
KwaMondi - which had been abandoned
in anticipation of war - into
a fort and depot but they where
soon surrounded by Zulu warriors
and besieged for 10 weeks.
The lesson from the Battle of
Rorke's Drift, which began on
the same day as the battles of
Nyezane and Isandlwana, was that
it was not militarily opportune
for the Zulu army to storm a fortified
British position and Cetshwayo
forbade his army to attempt it
at Eshowe.
Instead, he hoped that a blockade
of KwaMondi would cut off the
British garrison from all supplies
and communication with Natal and
eventually force the starving
British soldiers into evacuating
where they could be attacked in
the open.
A second granite cross - closer
to Gingindlovu
and directly beside the R66 -
marks the site of the battle two
months later between Lord
Chelmsford's
Relief Column marching toward
Eshowe and a large Zulu army of
about 10 000 warriors.
After a 90-minute battle, the
Zulu army experienced heavy losses
and retreated, leaving the British
to bury their dead and march hurriedly
on to Eshowe and end the siege
of British soldiers.
The
coastal advance into Zululand
by the British First Division
took a similar route that the
R102 today follows. Along this
route, farms with names like Fort
Chelmsford and Fort Napolean were
the sites used by the British
as strongpoints while the Left
Division prepared for the final
advance on King Cetshwayo's capital
at Ulundi on 4 July 1879.

The Norwegian
mission station known as KwaMondi
at Eshowe was occupied by the
British forces at the start of
the Anglo Zulu War.
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Eshowe's
architectural legacy |
At
the end of the war Eshowe
became the capital of the colony
of Zululand and developed rapidly
into a bustling Victorian frontier
town. Not only did forts and jails
have to be built , but elegant mansions,
schools, hospitals and grand hotels
soon followed.
Today
the best preserved public buildings
are Fort
Nongqayi, the Primary School
on Main Street and The Old Gaol
on the John Ross Highway.
The fort-like red-brick Gaol housed
political prisoners during the Anglo
Boer War and a few years later also
provided refuge for townsfolk during
the Bhambatha uprising.
Visitors can also catch glimpses
of beautifully preserved Victorian
villas such as Samarang - a private
residence opposite the traffic circle
on Osborn Rd - and a typical colonial
verandah house known as The Residency,
which once housed the Resident Commissioner,
chief magistrates, visiting British
royalty and a resident ghost named
Josephine. |
The
Ultimatum Tree is situated
just below the N2 bridge
crossing uThukela river
but visitors wishing to
stop are obliged to get
onto the R102 and take the
Harold Johnson Nature Reserve
road. From the Ultimatum
Tree it is a steep climb
to Fort Pearson from where
there are magnificent views
of the river as it flows
toward the Indian Ocean.
There is also an interpretation
centre explaining the causes
of the Anglo-Zulu conflict.

A
memorial beside the R66
marks the site of the Battle
of Gingindlovu on 2 April
1879.
Nine British soldiers killed
in the battle are buried
nearby. The memorial commemorating
the Battle of Nyezane is
about 500m off the R66 closer
to Eshowe.
Prince Dabulamanzi
(centre), the younger brother
of King Cetshwayo and leader
of the attack on the British
at Rorke's Drift, led an
army of 10 000 men at the
Battle of Gingindlovu.
More than 1 200 Zulu soldiers
were killed at Gingindlovu.
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The
Old Gaol has served as a prison
as well as a refuge for Eshowe
residents. |
The
original school in Main St
elegantly conveys early South
African Edwardian architectural
style. |
One
of the original wood and iron
settler houses - now serves
as a restaurant in the Museum
Village. |
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John
Dunn - The White Chief of
Zululand |
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No
other person embodied the turbulent
times in which they lived more
than John Dunn, the legendary
hunter, trader and white chief
of Zululand whose activities spanned
three crucial decades in the history
of Zululand.
Dunn
was born of Scottish parents in
1824 and grew up in the rough
and ready spirit of early Port
Natal (now Durban) but at the
age of 18, he moved with his young
bride Catherine into the unexplored
territory north of Durban.
On one of his hunting trips into
Zululand, Dunn met Cetshwayo -
the heir apparent to the Zulu
kingdom - and was invited to settle
in Zululand and become the prince's
advisor.
Dunn agreed to the offer and was
made Chief of the fertile coastal
area known as Ongoye - stretching
from uThukela to the Mhlatuze
river in the north - and he increasingly
adopted the culture and customs
of the Zulu.
Against the disapproval of his
wife, Dunn married his first Zulu
wife in 1861. Over the next few
decades he ended up taking 48
Zulu wives.
He was careful to heed Zulu marriage
rituals and customs and paid
ilobolo (bridewealth delivered
by bridegroom to his in-laws)
of between nine and 15 head of
cattle to the fathers of the brides.
For breach of rules, several of
his wives were banished from his
household and two wives found
guilty of infidelity were sentenced
to death and executed in accordance
with Zulu law.
He is credited with having sired
at least 117 children.
The close bond between Dunn and
King
Cetshwayo strengthened over
the years and Dunn rose to become
one of the wealthiest and most
powerful chiefs in the Zulu kingdom
through his ivory and gun trading.
Dunn's own economic well-being
depended on a policy of peace
with the British colony of Natal
but with the inevitability of
war, Dunn's influence over Cetshwayo
diminished and the king and his
advisors came to view his motives
with suspicion.
Dunn tried to negotiate a position
of neutrality for his chiefdom
but the British warned him that
he would lose everything in a
post-war Zululand.
On Old Year's Night 1878 Dunn
and his family, 2 000 supporters
and over 3 000 head of cattle
were ferried across uThukela into
British Natal. A few days later
- his fortunes plummeting rapidly
- Dunn offered his services to
the British.
His first task was to brief the
British on the terrain in his
former chiefdom. He took part
for the first time in the war
at the Battle
of Gingindlovu.
Following the defeat of the Zulu
army at Ulundi
and the arrest of Cetshwayo, the
British divided the kingdom into
13 independent chiefdoms and appointed
men amenable to British administration,
including Dunn who was given back
his former chiefdom with increased
powers and twice as much land.
Four years later Cetshwayo was
allowed to return to Zululand
and a bitter civil war broke out
between the new and old guards.
Cetshwayo was speared in the thigh
while trying to flee his capital
during an attack by neighbouring
rival chiefs.
Cetshwayo
eventually took refuge in Eshowe
and died soon afterwards under
mysterious circumstances.
In the late 1880's Britain annexed
Zululand as a British colony and
Dunn unhappily found himself once
again under colonial rule.
He washed his hands of all involvement
with the British government and
retired to spend out his last
years as a cattle farmer. His
health deteriorated and after
a brief illness he died on 5 August
1895 at his farm Emoyeni at the
age of 71.
He was survived by 23 wives and
79 children.
Information
source:
- Dunn, John (edited by Moodie,
D C F). Cetywayo,
and The Three Generals,
Pietermaritzburg, 1886. Reprint
available at Fort Nongqayi Museum
Village, Eshowe.
- Ballard, Charles. John
Dunn: The White Chief of Zululand,
Craighall, 1985
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"John
Dunn is a handsome, well-built
man, about five feet eight
in height, with good forehead,
regular features, and keen
grey eyes; a closely-cut
iron-grey beard hides the
lower half of his bronzed
weather-tanned countenance,
and a look of determination
and shrewdness is discernible
in every lineament. So far
from affecting native costume,
the chief was, if anything,
more neatly dressed than
the average colonist, in
plain tweed suit and wideawake
hat. In manner he is quiet
and unassuming, and no trace
of self-glorification or
'bounce' is there about
him." - a contemporary
commentator.
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The
carriage which John Dunn presented
to Cetshwayo on the occassion
of his coronation in 1873.
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Dunn's
Zulu dancing stick forms
part of the John Dunn Collection
on display at the Zululand
Historical Museum in Eshowe.
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A
rare photograph of one of
Dunn's 48 Zulu wives. |
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Mtunzini
- in particular the coastal
bush and the lagoon - held
a special place in Dunn's
life. An area under a large
milkwood tree (site of the
present Indaba Campsite) was
cleared and used to conduct
court hearings as well as
a venue for family celebrations
such as harvest festivals
and weddings. A pool was dug
out on the banks of uMlalazi
river to provide an area safe
from crocodiles and hippo
in which his wives could bathe. |
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King
Cetshwayo, on board
the HMS Natal, on his
way to exile in the
Cape. |
While
in captivity at
Cape Town Castle,
King Cetshwayo
recorded his thoughts
on his friend,
John Dunn: |
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"
One very cold and stormy
night in winter I was
seated before a large
fire in my hut when
there was a noise without
as if someone was arriving.
I asked the cause from
my attendants and they
told me a white man
in a miserable state
of destitution had just
arrived and claimed
my hospitality. I ordered
the servants to bring
him in, and a tall,
splendidly made man
appeared. He was dressed
in rags, for his clothes
had been torn to pieces
in fighting through
the bush, and he was
shivering from fever.
I drew my cloak aside
and asked him to sit
by the fire, and told
the servants to bring
food and clothing. I
loved this white man
as a brother, and made
him one of my head indunas,
giving him land and
wives, daughters of
my chiefs. Now my sun
has gone down and John
Dunn is sitting by the
fire, but he does not
draw his cloak aside." |
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Further
Reading:
Castle,
I and Knight, I, Fearful
Hard Times: The Siege
and Relief of Eshowe,
London, 1994.
Guy, J, The
Destruction of the Zulu
Kingdom,
London, 1979.
Laband, J, Fight
Us in the Open,
Pietermaritzburg and
Ulundi, 1985.
Laband, J, Rope
of Sand: The Rise and
Fall of the Zulu Kingdom
in the Nineteenth Century,
Jonathan Ball,
Johannesburg, 1995.
Laband, J and Thompson,
P, The Illustrated
Guide to the Anglo-Zulu
War, Pietermaritzburg
and Durban.
Van der Walt, J C, Zululand
True Stories: 1780 -1976,
Richards Bay, 2006.
Van Jaarsveld, Albert,
Mtunzini:
A History from Earliest
Times to 1995,
Mtunzini, 1998.
Webb, D de B, and Wright,
J B (eds), A
Zulu King Speaks: Statements
Made by Cetshwayo kaMpande
on the History and Customs
of his People,
Pietermaritzburg and
Durban, 1978. |
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