Linn Ware ceramic frieze at Mayoral Chambers reflects Eshowe in its early colonial days
Your Essential Guide to the Zululand Experience
visitZululand.co.za
The official website of
the uMlalazi Tourism Association



• Portraits, Weddings,
• Enlargements
• Scrapbooking


Eshowe Arcade
Osborn St, Eshowe

082 497 0622
035 474 4171

chris@jcsphotography.co.za


Eco Estate & Home
of Zululand Golf


• 18-Hole Golf Course
• 6 Tennis Courts
• 2 Squash Courts
• Restaurant


Contact:
Tel: 035 474 4884
info@eshowehills.co.za


COMFORT TOURS
Reliable transport in a 22-seater or 13-seater mini-bus


•Airport shuttle
•Battlefield Tours
•Cultural Tours
•Township Tours
•Birding

Contact:
Tel: 035 474 4684
Fax : 035 474 4685
email:
inhlanzeko@telkomsa.net


Prince Ndabuko
Zulu Experience


Enjoy a traditional Zulu meal and an evening of folklore and story-telling

Contact:
Cynthia Kabanyane
Tel: 035 474 5662
Cell: 083 301 2470
email: cysk1@worldonline.co.za

HENRY BIRD
Registered Tour Guide

Battlefields
Shaka Country
Martyr's Cross
• KwaMondi
• Museum Village

Contact:
Tel/fax: 035 474 2348
Cell: 082 484 7406
email: ahbird@netactive.co.za

ADAMS' OUTPOST
at the Museum Village

Tea Garden
Restaurant
• Private Functions

• Tour Groups
• School Groups

Contact:
Terry MacDonald

Tel: 035-474-1787

Taxi 2

Speedy service in Eshowe, the surrounding area and anywhere in SA


Cell: 083 431 5556

email:
jonoguy@telkomsa.net

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK
Mon-Fri: 07h00-19h00

Sat-Sun: 08h00-17h00

ESHOWE SUPERSPAR
on Osborn Rd


for a world of beads

1 Wantink Rd, Eshowe
035 474 1806


THE FAT CAT
on Station Rd

Coffees & Cakes
• Lunches
• Tourism info

Open Mon-Sat:
08h00-17h00

• Takeway calamari

• Takeway Peri Chicken
Mon-Sat:
12h00-19h30


Horse riding
for all ages in Mtunzini

Contact:
Debbie Adlam

Cell: 083 231 7764
djadlam@mweb.co.za



Land Lover Safaris
Tailor-made excursions

  • Hluhluwe-iMfolozi
    Game Park
  • Forests of Zululand
  • Zulu Culture
  • and more!

Kobus du Toit
(KZN Tour operator)
083 414 9323
035 789 1176
landlover@telkomsa.net
www.landloversafaris.co.za



For all your
property needs
and friendly service

Contact:
Yvonne Daniels
Tel: 035 340 1102
Cell: 082 878 2079
email: dayd@absamail.co.za


THE COLONIAL HERITAGE

There are reminders everywhere of Zululand's colonial legacy. The language spoken in the streets, the architecture of old buildings, the churches perched on hilltops, the sombre war memorials still standing on roadsides all attest to Zululand's remarkable recent history.
It is the story of one kingdom's imperial ambitions clashing violently with another kingdom's determination to be independent. And the ideal starting point for exploring this bloody episode is literally where the Anglo Zulu War began - the Ultimatum Tree on the banks of uThukela river.

 The Battles of Nyezane and Gingindlovu

The R102 route from uThukela and then the R66 to Eshowe closely follows the route which the British Right Column took on their invasion of Zululand and granite crosses on the side of the R66 between Gingindlovu and Eshowe mark the sites of two battles between the British and the Zulu armies.
The first battle of the Anglo Zulu War was fought near the Nyezane river on 22 January 1879. Here the British managed to avoid the defeat which the Central Column faced at Isandlwana on the same day. They were able to advance onward to Eshowe where
they converted the Norwegian mission station KwaMondi - which had been abandoned in anticipation of war - into a fort and depot but they where soon surrounded by Zulu warriors and besieged for 10 weeks.
The lesson from the Battle of Rorke's Drift, which began on the same day as the battles of Nyezane and Isandlwana, was that it was not militarily opportune for the Zulu army to storm a fortified British position and Cetshwayo forbade his army to attempt it at Eshowe.
Instead, he hoped that a blockade of KwaMondi would cut off the British garrison from all supplies and communication with Natal and eventually force the starving British soldiers into evacuating where they could be attacked in the open.
A second granite cross - closer to Gingindlovu and directly beside the R66 - marks the site of the battle two months later between Lord Chelmsford's Relief Column marching toward Eshowe and a large Zulu army of about 10 000 warriors.
After a 90-minute battle, the Zulu army experienced heavy losses and retreated, leaving the British to bury their dead and march hurriedly on to Eshowe and end the siege of British soldiers.

The coastal advance into Zululand by the British First Division took a similar route that the R102 today follows. Along this route, farms with names like Fort Chelmsford and Fort Napolean were the sites used by the British as strongpoints while the Left Division prepared for the final advance on King Cetshwayo's capital at Ulundi on 4 July 1879.

KwaMondi
The Norwegian mission station known as KwaMondi at Eshowe was occupied by the British forces at the start of the Anglo Zulu War.

 Eshowe's architectural legacy

At the end of the war Eshowe became the capital of the colony of Zululand and developed rapidly into a bustling Victorian frontier town. Not only did forts and jails have to be built , but elegant mansions, schools, hospitals and grand hotels soon followed.
Today the best preserved public buildings are Fort Nongqayi, the Primary School on Main Street and The Old Gaol on the John Ross Highway.
The fort-like red-brick Gaol housed political prisoners during the Anglo Boer War and a few years later also provided refuge for townsfolk during the Bhambatha uprising.
Visitors can also catch glimpses of beautifully preserved Victorian villas such as Samarang - a private residence opposite the traffic circle on Osborn Rd - and a typical colonial verandah house known as The Residency, which once housed the Resident Commissioner, chief magistrates, visiting British royalty and a resident ghost named Josephine.

A sycamore fig tree marks the site where the British issued King Cetshwayo with an ultimatum

The Ultimatum Tree is situated just below the N2 bridge crossing uThukela river but visitors wishing to stop are obliged to get onto the R102 and take the Harold Johnson Nature Reserve road. From the Ultimatum Tree it is a steep climb to Fort Pearson from where there are magnificent views of the river as it flows toward the Indian Ocean. There is also an interpretation centre explaining the causes of the Anglo-Zulu conflict.

Memorial to those who fell during the Battle of Gingindlovu
A memorial beside the R66 marks the site of the Battle of Gingindlovu on 2 April 1879.
Nine British soldiers killed in the battle are buried nearby. The memorial commemorating the Battle of Nyezane is about 500m off the R66 closer to Eshowe.

Prince Dabulamanzi
Prince Dabulamanzi (centre), the younger brother of King Cetshwayo and leader of the attack on the British at Rorke's Drift, led an army of 10 000 men at the Battle of Gingindlovu.
More than 1 200 Zulu soldiers were killed at Gingindlovu.

The Old Gaol
Eshowe Junior School
Adams' Outpost
The Old Gaol has served as a prison as well as a refuge for Eshowe residents.
The original school in Main St elegantly conveys early South African Edwardian architectural style.
One of the original wood and iron settler houses - now serves as a restaurant in the Museum Village.
 John Dunn - The White Chief of Zululand

No other person embodied the turbulent times in which they lived more than John Dunn, the legendary hunter, trader and white chief of Zululand whose activities spanned three crucial decades in the history of Zululand.

Dunn was born of Scottish parents in 1824 and grew up in the rough and ready spirit of early Port Natal (now Durban) but at the age of 18, he moved with his young bride Catherine into the unexplored territory north of Durban.

On one of his hunting trips into Zululand, Dunn met Cetshwayo - the heir apparent to the Zulu kingdom - and was invited to settle in Zululand and become the prince's advisor.

Dunn agreed to the offer and was made Chief of the fertile coastal area known as Ongoye - stretching from uThukela to the Mhlatuze river in the north - and he increasingly adopted the culture and customs of the Zulu.

Against the disapproval of his wife, Dunn married his first Zulu wife in 1861. Over the next few decades he ended up taking 48 Zulu wives.

He was careful to heed Zulu marriage rituals and customs and paid ilobolo (bridewealth delivered by bridegroom to his in-laws) of between nine and 15 head of cattle to the fathers of the brides. For breach of rules, several of his wives were banished from his household and two wives found guilty of infidelity were sentenced to death and executed in accordance with Zulu law.

He is credited with having sired at least 117 children.

The close bond between Dunn and Cetshwayo strengthened over the years and Dunn rose to become one of the wealthiest and most powerful chiefs in the Zulu kingdom through his ivory and gun trading.

Dunn's own economic well-being depended on a policy of peace with the British colony of Natal but with the inevitability of war, Dunn's influence over Cetshwayo diminished and the king and his advisors came to view his motives with suspicion.

Dunn tried to negotiate a position of neutrality for his chiefdom but the British warned him that he would lose everything in a post-war Zululand.

On Old Year's Night 1878 Dunn and his family, 2 000 supporters and over 3 000 head of cattle were ferried across uThukela into British Natal. A few days later - his fortunes plummeting rapidly - Dunn offered his services to the British.
His first task was to brief the British on the terrain in his former chiefdom. He took part for the first time in the war at the Battle of Gingindlovu.

Following the defeat of the Zulu army at Ulundi and the arrest of Cetshwayo, the British divided the kingdom into 13 independent chiefdoms and appointed men amenable to British administration, including Dunn who was given back his former chiefdom with increased powers and twice as much land.

Four years later Cetshwayo was allowed to return to Zululand and a bitter civil war broke out between the new and old guards. Cetshwayo was speared in the thigh while trying to flee his capital during an attack by neighbouring rival chiefs.

Cetshwayo eventually took refuge in Eshowe and died soon afterwards under mysterious circumstances.

In the late 1880's Britain annexed Zululand as a British colony and Dunn unhappily found himself once again under colonial rule.

He washed his hands of all involvement with the British government and retired to spend out his last years as a cattle farmer. His health deteriorated and after a brief illness he died on 5 August 1895 at his farm Emoyeni at the age of 65.
He was survived by 23 wives and 79 children.

Information source:
- Dunn, John (edited by Moodie, D C F). Cetywayo, and The Three Generals, Pietermaritzburg, 1886. Reprint available at Fort Nongqayi Museum Village, Eshowe.
- Ballard, Charles. John Dunn: The White Chief of Zululand,
Craighall, 1985

John Dunn
"John Dunn is a handsome, well-built man, about five feet eight in height, with good forehead, regular features, and keen grey eyes; a closely-cut iron-grey beard hides the lower half of his bronzed weather-tanned countenance, and a look of determination and shrewdness is discernible in every lineament. So far from affecting native costume, the chief was, if anything, more neatly dressed than the average colonist, in plain tweed suit and wideawake hat. In manner he is quiet and unassuming, and no trace of self-glorification or 'bounce' is there about him." - a contemporary commentator.

 

King Cetshwayo's carriage
The carriage which John Dunn presented to Cetshwayo on the occassion of his coronation in 1873.

 

John Dunn's dancing stick
Dunn's Zulu dancing stick forms part of the John Dunn Collection on display at the Zululand Historical Museum in Eshowe.

 

One of John Dunn's Zulu wives
A rare photograph of one of Dunn's 48 Zulu wives.
A Place in the ShadeIndaba campsiteDunn's pool can be found  on the Mangrove Trail
Mtunzini - in particular the coastal bush and the lagoon - held a special place in Dunn's life. An area under a large milkwood tree (site of the present Indaba Campsite) was cleared and used to conduct court hearings as well as a venue for family celebrations such as harvest festivals and weddings. A pool was dug out on the banks of uMlalazi river to provide an area safe from crocodiles and hippo in which his wives could bathe.
King Cetshwayo
King Cetshwayo, on board the HMS Natal, on his way to exile in the Cape.
While in captivity at Cape Town Castle, King Cetshwayo recorded his thoughts on his friend, John Dunn:
" One very cold and stormy night in winter I was seated before a large fire in my hut when there was a noise without as if someone was arriving. I asked the cause from my attendants and they told me a white man in a miserable state of destitution had just arrived and claimed my hospitality. I ordered the servants to bring him in, and a tall, splendidly made man appeared. He was dressed in rags, for his clothes had been torn to pieces in fighting through the bush, and he was shivering from fever. I drew my cloak aside and asked him to sit by the fire, and told the servants to bring food and clothing. I loved this white man as a brother, and made him one of my head indunas, giving him land and wives, daughters of my chiefs. Now my sun has gone down and John Dunn is sitting by the fire, but he does not draw his cloak aside."

Further Reading:
Castle, I and Knight, I, Fearful Hard Times: The Siege and Relief of Eshowe, London, 1994.
Guy, J, The Destruction of the Zulu Kingdom, London, 1979.
Laband, J, Fight Us in the Open, Pietermaritzburg and Ulundi, 1985.
Laband, J, Rope of Sand: The Rise and Fall of the Zulu Kingdom in the Nineteenth Century, Jonathan Ball, Johannesburg, 1995.
Laband, J and Thompson, P, The Illustrated Guide to the Anglo-Zulu War, Pietermaritzburg and Durban.
Van der Walt, J C, Zululand True Stories: 178 -1976, Richards Bay, 2006.
Webb, D de B, and Wright, J B (eds), A Zulu King Speaks: Statements Made by Cetshwayo kaMpande on the History and Customs of his People, Pietermaritzburg and Durban, 1978.

The Illustrated Guide to the Anglo-Zulu War

www.visitZululand.co.za is the official website of the uMlalazi Tourism Association
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